Depends on your dishwasher. Even in top rack after a couple of washes PETG it warped for me on standard wash. If you run a dry cycle or sterilization cycle on your dishwasher forget it. If its anything precise (I printed a lid with threads) a single standard wash is enough to ruin precision with subtle warping. Also the dishwasher can introduce moisture into gaps created by printing that can grow mold or bacteria. I think we would all love better options for dishwashable printed materials, but I would argue PETG is not really it.
Sounds like a thermal runaway where a temperature changed too quickly and the code interpreted that as a fire or risk of fire and shut down. A lot of times that can be helped with a silicone sock and a PID tuning. Another thing is the ceramic heater core is going bad and it can’t keep a stable temp above a point. Heater cores are cheap and easy to change. The heater core is considered a consumable part and usually comes in multiple packs.
It sounds like it may have been reaching a thermal shutoff point and killing itself. Maybe the temp you were aiming for was close to the limit, and slight variations caused it to go over and “save” itself.
The only thing that might keep a printer that prints PLA well from printing PETG well is if it’s an old printer without a heated bed. Save for that (and potentially faulty hardware or miscalibrated settings), there’s not really anything that “can’t” print PETG.
I actually have some PLA+ rolls that print at higher speeds temps than my PETG rolls 🤷🏾♂️
I’m sorry but that’s incorrect. All of that. Your guesses were wrong. Except it is absolutely a sensor telling the machine to turn off, that part is right.
You seem incredibly confident in your diagnosis for someone who can’t get a very common filament to work on printers that have been using it for years. Care to elaborate more than, “you’re completely wrong, except for where you’re right”? What was causing the problem?
Yeah, my major qualm about 3D printing is that all of the plastics I would like to use are higher heat than any entry level printers.
PETG works fine in the dishwasher and works on any standard printer.
Depends on your dishwasher. Even in top rack after a couple of washes PETG it warped for me on standard wash. If you run a dry cycle or sterilization cycle on your dishwasher forget it. If its anything precise (I printed a lid with threads) a single standard wash is enough to ruin precision with subtle warping. Also the dishwasher can introduce moisture into gaps created by printing that can grow mold or bacteria. I think we would all love better options for dishwashable printed materials, but I would argue PETG is not really it.
PETG is a good argument against my statement, but it still prints at a temperature between 220 and 260 C. PLA prints at 180 to 220 C.
PETG is a higher temperature plastic than PLA, and a lot of cheap (below $200) printers don’t work well with it.
Pretty much all printers print PETG. It’s typically around 220-240, I have never gone above 245 and that on very high speeds.
Old Ender 3s and the like work just fine with PETG. Not sure where you got the impression they don’t.
There’s nothing special about printing PETG that requires a big change over PLA. Printers have been hitting those temps since the rep rap days.
Personal experiences with a cheap sovol that turned itself off when the temperatures went up during a long print.
Sounds like a thermal runaway where a temperature changed too quickly and the code interpreted that as a fire or risk of fire and shut down. A lot of times that can be helped with a silicone sock and a PID tuning. Another thing is the ceramic heater core is going bad and it can’t keep a stable temp above a point. Heater cores are cheap and easy to change. The heater core is considered a consumable part and usually comes in multiple packs.
It sounds like it may have been reaching a thermal shutoff point and killing itself. Maybe the temp you were aiming for was close to the limit, and slight variations caused it to go over and “save” itself.
The only thing that might keep a printer that prints PLA well from printing PETG well is if it’s an old printer without a heated bed. Save for that (and potentially faulty hardware or miscalibrated settings), there’s not really anything that “can’t” print PETG.
I actually have some PLA+ rolls that print at higher
speedstemps than my PETG rolls 🤷🏾♂️I’m sorry but that’s incorrect. All of that. Your guesses were wrong. Except it is absolutely a sensor telling the machine to turn off, that part is right.
You seem incredibly confident in your diagnosis for someone who can’t get a very common filament to work on printers that have been using it for years. Care to elaborate more than, “you’re completely wrong, except for where you’re right”? What was causing the problem?
Your native language must not be English. Goodbye, friend.
PETG is pretty easy to print and has a higher temp resistance than PLA