Now that I think about it, it was probably before the pandemic. 🤔

  • reddig33@lemmy.world
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    5 days ago

    If you buy an electric mower, you never have to change the oil again. Or the spark plug. Or buy gas. Or clean the carburetor.

    • friend_of_satan@lemmy.world
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      4 days ago

      And they’re quieter! God I wish my neighbors all had electric mowers. Sometimes it seems like they’re invited to all the zoom meetings I attend.

      • AwkwardLookMonkeyPuppet@lemmy.world
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        4 days ago

        After spending several hours on Saturdays doing yardwork I didn’t enjoy doing for years on end, I finally hired a gardener. Now I get to spend that time doing yardwork I do enjoy, like making landscaping improvements, or gardening.

    • Cornpop@lemmy.world
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      3 days ago

      Wish they made an affordable electric zero turn that could handle mowing 7 acres of field 3-4 times a month in the summer. I need commercial grade sadly and there’s nothing in the homeowner space that comes close to my needs. The commercial ones are like 30k to compare with what I got for 6k

    • Cocodapuf@lemmy.world
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      3 days ago

      I expect they do need lubrication from time to time. I just bought an electric mower this year and it’s pretty low power, so I predict that any amount of additional friction in the system is going to be too much.

      • Kadaj21@lemmy.world
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        3 days ago

        While I can’t say I have a large yard. My 80v Greenworks system can do the job 90% of the time on 1 battery (I have 2). When it can’t from being lazy and not mowing as often as I should have or it was especially rainy, I can swap the batteries in moments and the battery charges within 20 or so minutes. By then I am done or using the battery from the mower in the leaf blower or weed whacker.

        I would imagine if I had a larger yard I would go with a third in the event of having longer grass to cut and would have a battery charged, battery charging, and one in use.

        I would not trade my yard system with a gas one for any amount of money. If i do anything it’d be to hire someone that uses electric (quieter!) to mow and edge and all that jazz. Or use a Fiskars reel mower.

        Oh yea. I drive an ID.4. Suck it gas stations trolololol.

      • shottymcb@lemm.ee
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        3 days ago

        I have 1/3rd acre, takes 2 batteries to mow uninterrupted. Anything bigger than that I hope it’s not just grass, that’s a waste of space.

  • Tyfud@lemmy.world
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    3 days ago

    Most mower engines are 2-strokes, they’re designed to burn oil as lubrication basically, it’s added to the gas. You don’t need to change the oil. Unless it’s a 4 stroke engine (unusual due to size/complexity), or you’ve got a transmission or some other motorized mechanical behavior.

    • Cornpop@lemmy.world
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      3 days ago

      Most mower engines are absolutely not 2 strokes… they are 99.99% 4 strokes.

      Now strim trimmers are maybe 60/40 2s to 4s.

  • Treczoks@lemmy.world
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    3 days ago

    I never changed the oil in my mower. Never had an issue, except with the power cord getting in the way.

      • Machinist@lemmy.world
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        3 days ago

        Most mowers are four stroke like automobile engines, this includes pushmowers. Modern ones even have oil filters. Generally, riding mowers have two cylinder v-twin engines and pushmowers are single cylinder.

        Two stroke engines are generally found on smaller things like chainsaws and weed eaters.

        You mix special oil into the gas for two strokes. They do produce more smoke, especially when first started.

      • ililiililiililiilili@lemm.ee
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        3 days ago

        Nah, most push and riding mowers are definitely 4 stroke. You’re absolutely correct that 2 strokes need to burn oil and create some visible smoke (to be properly lubricated). Only small, powered equipment (such as trimmers, blowers, and chainsaws) are still commonly made with 2 strokes. My smoking push mower was made in the mid 1980’s and is miraculously still running. It apparently has worn seals that are allowing crankcase oil into the combustion chamber.

        • Cocodapuf@lemmy.world
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          3 days ago

          Cool, did not know that! I have to admit I made assumptions there, figuring 2 stroke engines are probably more appropriate for smaller equipment. But I guess since you don’t have to carry a mower, a heavier engine is not a big deal, makes sense.

          Good luck with your mower, no need for something else as long as it’s still working! After all, with a lot of things they really don’t make em like they used to, that old mower could serve you for a very long time.

  • Aremel@lemmy.world
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    5 days ago

    I thought two-stroke engines mix the oil and fuel together? Every time you refuel, you should also be topping up the oil. Am I wrong?

  • ContrarianTrail@lemm.ee
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    4 days ago

    For the money you save by not doing the oil change you can probably afford a new mower every 10 years or so.

    • AwkwardLookMonkeyPuppet@lemmy.world
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      4 days ago

      This is my strategy. I’ve never done any maintenance on any of my mowers except for sharpening the blade, and they still run for around 10 years.

    • GiuseppeAndTheYeti@midwest.social
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      4 days ago

      How often were you changing the oil in your mower? I own an electric lawnmower now, but before that I just changed the oil once at the beginning of each mowing season.

      • ContrarianTrail@lemm.ee
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        4 days ago

        I only changed it once with the extra can I bought with the mower but never since. I’d imagine it easily costing somewhere around 20 to 30 euros a year so that’ll pretty much cover a new mower every 10 years.

        • GiuseppeAndTheYeti@midwest.social
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          4 days ago

          Lawnmowers only take about 16oz of oil and you can buy 5qts(160oz) for $23 here in the states. So that $23 would last 10 years of oil changes if you replace it once per season like I did.

          Not sure what that would cost you in Europe. So maybe that’s where the disconnect is.

  • radix@lemmy.world
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    5 days ago

    I haven’t pushed it anywhere near 10,000 km, so I should be good, right?

    Right?

  • the_tab_key@lemmy.world
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    4 days ago

    My neighbor had a crazy old Montgomery Ward tiller, I’d guess from the late 60 or early 70s. I borrowed it once and decided to be nice and change the oil in it since I doubted he ever had. Could not for the life of me figure out how to drain the oil without flipping it over… It’s ran for this long on old oil, it’ll run for a bit longer!

      • mortalic@lemmy.world
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        4 days ago

        I had a mower I bought in 2001, took it with me for a few moves. Sometime around 2011 it started sputtering and just take running like crap. Tried to drain it, and it basically took so afternoon. But I got it drained and replaced. The filter had disintegrated.

        With the electric mower, I’ve had it since 2013 or so. The battery is finally starting to show its age but it does still work well enough. Still haven’t done anything to it. Might replace the blade soon

    • AngryCommieKender@lemmy.world
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      4 days ago

      Genuine question as I haven’t actually thought about this, how does that work when you don’t have a winter? Where I live it doesn’t get below 40° ever, or above 85°. Those are literally the overnight low in Feb, and midday high in Aug/Sep. Do I still need to drain, or just treat it like changing the oil in my car? I.E.: Every 6 months or 3500 miles, whichever comes first.

      • CM400@lemmy.world
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        4 days ago

        Like u/possiblylinux127 said, any time you’re not going to use it for more than a month or two, it’s best to drain the fluids. Oil is less important than gas, and you can leave gas in it as well if you add a stabilizer to it.

        Personally, I wouldn’t use gas stabilizer for more than one season, but I know many who use it every year with no problem. Just make sure you run the motor with the stabilizer for a few minutes before you store it so the gas in the carburetor doesn’t gum up.

        As for oil, I tend to only change it when it looks darker than a piece of burnt toast I’d still be willing to eat. I know that’s vague, but it’s how I do it.

        • Fosheze@lemmy.world
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          4 days ago

          Ideally, you should be using nonoxygenated gas for your mower, in which case stabilizer is unnecessary. The ethanol is what gums up carbs.

          • baldingpudenda@lemmy.world
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            4 days ago

            I usually have to use starter fluid first time each year. I beat the shit out of it. Only changed the oil once, when I bought it second hand. I’m really waiting for it to fail to buy electric, but it’s been 3 years and and still going strong.

      • Possibly linux@lemmy.zip
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        4 days ago

        If you don’t need it there is no point in having fluids in it. It might not be necessary but it is good practice

    • Bytemeister@lemmy.world
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      5 days ago

      Sharpen/replace the blade. It’s cheap and easy to do, and it will cut like a brand new mower.

      Also, this is a PSA that you should sharpen your shovel. Makes digging way easier.

  • mvirts@lemmy.world
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    5 days ago

    Oof glad I don’t have to do that anymore. My car on the other hand… 😐 It’s probably due